Manufacture of heels



Nov. 1, 1932. R KMGHT 1,885,840

MANUFACTURE OF HEELS Filed Jan. 28, 1929 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 Fig.2. I Figifl.

Nov. 1, 1932. R. F. KNIGHT MANUFACTURE OF HEELS Filed Jan. 26, 1929 v 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 W F KW 4 42 Patented Nov. 1, 1932 UNITED STA RALPH KN HT; or BEVERLY, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO- UNITED ,sHoE MACHINERY conroRA'rIoN, or rA'rnnsoN, NEW JERSEY, A oonrona'rrouonnnw JERSEY V MANUFACTURE or HEELS Application filed January 26, 929. Serial No. 335,373.

This invention relates to methods of and apparatus for use in the measuring and the grading of heels. It, is described and illustrated with particular reference to its appli- 5 cation to grading wood heels and to measuring unattached heels of any description.

- Heels possess a number of characteristics of which 1t is desirable to have exact or numerical measures and it has heretofore been impossible to define these characteristics in numerical terms which will be uniformly understood by all makers and users of heels. The height of the heel is perhaps its most important quantitative characteristic, and there has been in the trade no definite idea of what the height of the-heel means. The term is vaguely understood to be the height of the heel from the tread surface to the rim of the attaching face of the heel measured in a vertical plane at the breast but, except in the case of heels'which have a vertical breast (and such heels, inthe case of womens heels, at least, are not numerous), the term as so defined has little meaning, due to the fact that the attaching surface of the heel is generally on a considerable angle or pitch to the horizontal, herein for convenience termed the pitch angle, and the lack of any commonly accepted definition of where, in a fore and aft direction, the measurement is to be taken relatively to the curved breast causes aconsiderable indefiniteness in the determination of the height. V I

' Other important data relating to the fin ished heel are the relative positions, longitudinally of the shoe, of the front and rear ends of the attaching surface and of the tread rigorously determining the height according.

to" any standard adopted. It is a principal object of the present invention to provide a method of measuring heels by the practice of which, and a mechanism by means of which, the height as Well as the other characteristics discussed above'can be measured accurately and uniformly by anyone infthe'case of a given heel; or compared in themes of differ-f entheels, 1 1 v j .In the case of woodheels'prior to the attachment of the top-lift, the height ismeas ured from the top-lift receiving face, proper allowance being made for the thickness of the top-lift: In the case of leather heels or of finished Wood heels the height is measured from the treadface of the top-lift. Herein the term tread face will be used-generically to denote the surface from which the measurement is actually taken on heelsof'fall types, proper allowancebeing made for the thickness of the top-lift in case this element is as yet missing from the heel. i V

According to the method ofthe present invention the height is to be measured verticalT ly from the tread face, vertically to the edge or rim of the attaching face of the heel, in a vertical 1 plane extending from one side of the heel to the other, the plane being perpendicular to the tread face and cutting the heel breast surface at an arbitrarily selected point which, as herein disclosed, is at a fixed distance (herein taken numerically as 2 inch). below the intersection of the plane with 'theedge of, the attaching face of the heel. i I i In order to. providefor the measurement of theheights of heels in accordance with this suitable scales are provided, as will be' shown, 1 for indicatingtheiheight and pitch angle of a a heel in the apparatus. Preferablyalso, scales are provided for measuring the positions of the front andrear points of the tread face and of theattaching faee relatively to some fixed point of the heel.

The structure above described comprises in effect a holding apparatus for heels which may constitute either a part of a device for measuring heels or comparing the characteristics of different heels ora part of a machine for forming the top-lift receiving surface. In the former case the tread face engaging member is a gage surface or member, in the latter case it is a tool constructed to form the top-lift receiving surface on an unfinished heel.

In accordance with an import-antfeature of the invention, the pivotal axis of the piv otally-mounted member is placed substantially in the surface engaging the attaching face of the heel, andthe gagefor the breast of the heel is located at the above-mentioned arbitrarily selected point, herein shown asfat a fixed distance from the pivotal axis, and is located ina plane perpendicular 'to the surface engaging the tread face of-the heel and passing through the said-pivotal axis. Thus, as will beseen, a change in the pitch angle of the heel does not affect the measured height.

The pitch angle between the attaching surface and the horizontal, and the height, are

established, during the manufacture of wood heels, in the so-called grading machine,which treats the heel blanks after they havev had their breast, lateral and rear surfaces out. At this time the attachingsurface and the surface at the bottom end of the heel are in two parallel planes.

A grading machine, as heretofore constructed, consists of a saw and a ipivotally mounted holder for an ungraded heel by means of which the heel can be swung past the saw and a generally wedge-shaped piece cut from its bottom end to form the toplift receiving end and to determine theheight. The holder is also angularly adjustable about an axis transverse to the heel and parallel to the saw, to determine the pitch angle. The location of the last-named pivotal axis has heretofore had no relation to the surfaces of a heel held in the holder, and consequently any. change in the pitch angle produced by the machinehas always altered theheight andother characteristics ofthe heel, and a change in the pitch angle adjustment thus necessitated a corresponding change in the height adjustment, Consequently theobtaining of a given'pitch angle'and height has been a difiicult and wastefulprocedure. c In view of'the foregoing, the presentinvention also provides a grading machine embodyingthe invention and organized to en able heels to bereadily graded to the properv pitch and height, in accordance with the 'above'method, therebycorrecting the principal disadvantages of prior grading ma chines.

able toward and from the saw. Thus a heel blank canbe gradedto any desired height and pitclran'gle, by one predetermined setting of the machine, in accordance with the above-describedmethod and without vtroulowing description of a preferred embodiment of the invention shown in the drawings, in Wlllch Fig.1 is a perspective view of the gaging apparatus; I

Fig. 2 is a plan vlew thereof and Fig. 8 is an 916V51.tl0lll3l18160f Fig. 4 is a perspective view of the grading machine; 7 r

Fig. 5 is a plan view thereof; Fig. .6. is a detail View of the work holder; and v Fig. 7 is a detail of the adjusting mechanism.

The illustrated heel gaging or measuring apparatus (Fig. 1), has a frame having a base 10 and two parallel upstanding supports 12, 14 at the ends. A graduated bar 16 is mounted on the supports 12, 14, and on it is arranged to slide a frame 18 having an index 20 arranged to readon the graduations of the bar 16. The frame 18 has. two paralle arms 22 between which, on two pivots 24E, is mounteda flat plate 26, having a face 27 arranged vto cont-act with the attachingface of aheel 1 in the apparatus. Themounting is prefer: ably formed of ears 28 to permit the pivotal axis of the pivots 24 tolie in the operative surface 27 of the plate 26. The plate 2(iis adjustable about this pivotal axis and has fill-0k an index 30, reading along a graduatedarc 82 on the frame 18, by means of. which the pitch angle of the attaching faceof the heel can be read. The axis of the pivots 24is' perpendicular to the graduated bar '16.' The extremities of the arms 22 carry between them a gage member 34 parallel to the.

axis of the pivots 24. The operative edge 36 (Fig. 3) of this gage member is so arranged that the plane passing through it and the axis ated bar 16 and perpendicular to the standard 12. The edge 36 of the gageme'mber is, in the illustrated apparatus, located inch from the axis of the pivots 24. 7

If now, a heel 38 is placed with its tread face 40 in contact with the fiatvertical side of the standard 12 and its breast surface in contact with the edge 36 of the gage bar 84, and the frame 18'moved along theba'r 16 and the plate 26 rotated about the pivots at 24 until it contacts with the attaching face 42 ofthe heel, the heel 38' will just fit into the apparatus. The scale on the bar 16 is so arranged that the index will read the height of the heel measured perpendicularly to the vertical faceof the standard 12 throughqthe edge 36 to the edge of the attaching face 42-,

at its intersection with-the axis of the pivots 24. Thus the height of the heel 18 measured vertically from the tread face to the edge of the attaching surface through a point on the breast which is (in the present instance) inch vertically below the edge of the attaching surface, as is desired. 1 1

The standard 12 is provided with a graduated scale 44 with its zero in alinement with the pivotal axis of the screws 24 and the edge 86 of the gage bar 34, or in other words'in a plane perpendicular to the standard 12 and passing through the axis at 24, 24 and the gage'36, and conveniently graduated in both directions from this zero. On this scale the positions of the front and rear points ofthe tread face can be read relatively to this plane; The plate 26 is provided-with a graduated scale 46 on which the position of the rear end of the attaching face 42 'can'be read and a similar scale 48, graduated in the apparatus shown in eights of an inch, on which the position of the front edgeof the attaching face can be read, relatively to th'isvplane.

Fig. 4 shows a grading machine for wood heels by means of which heels havingpredetermined characteristics as above defined can 7 be produced, and which also embodies the in-.

vention. A frame 50 supports a saw 52 driven by a motor 54. On the front part of the frame is supported a rotatable and slidable shaft 56.- At one end the shaft is mounted in a plain bearing 58, and at the other end it is heldiby collars 60, 62 in a-sleeve64 the outside periphery ofwhich is threaded into a member 66 mounted on the frame, is rotatable therein by ahand wheel 68and is held in adjusted position by a clamp'ZO. Thus the shaft 56, whilefree to turn, can be longitudinally adjusted and its position read by an index 72 on the collar 62 against a scale 74 on the member 66.

Fixedly mounted on the shaft 56 is a work holder 76 having a heavy end 7 8 to turn. it

normally to a vertical position, out of engagement with the saw 52. The work holder is provided with an attaching-face supporting at the same distance,

plate 80, corresponding to the plate 26 and similarlypivoted'on the work holder 76 at 82. The plate 80 is provided with an index 84, and the holder with a graduated are 86 by means of which the pitch angle can beset. A gage 88 is provided similar to the gage bar 34 with its gagingedgein a plane passing through the pivot 82 andperpendicular to the plane of'the' saw 52. The illustrated gage is inch, from the pivot 82, as in the caseof the gage 36. The scale 7 4 and index 7 2 are so arranged that the scale will show the distance measured perpendicular to 'thesaw 52 from the saw through the gaging edge 88 to the'pivot 82 and the operative face of the plate 80, the theory being just the same as before. V

-' In the use. of the grading machine, the

operator sets the indices' 72 and 84 to the lengthtand pitclr angle desired, places the wood heel blank 90 against the plate 80 and thegage 88 as shown in Fig. 5, and swings it downpast thes'awwith his left hand, holding it against theplate 80 with his left thumb,

the shaft 56 rotating to permit the swing;

This operation severe the little block 92, and,

as it is termed, grades the heel.

1A gage 94 (Fig. 6) is provided to assist the operator in holding the'h'eel firmly in place and the plate 80 is angularly adjusted by a thumb wheel 96 and screw 98 having trunnionv connections with the plate 80and the work holder 76, as shown. in exploded view in Fig. 7. i i

In a grading machine it is desirable that the finished work drop out of the worlvholder as soon as the operator releases it, and there fore the ears 28 of the gaging apparatus above described have been omitted from the illustrated grading machine. The pivot 82, in the illustrated grading machine is there-. fore not quite in the operative surface of the plate 80, but the error resulting is negligible. Having described any invention,what-I claimas new anddesire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is: i Y 1. Thatnnprovement m methods ofmaklng heels which consistsin measuring the height of any heel perpendicularly toethe face to the edge of ing pivotally adjustable about an axis parallel to the .tool and extending from side to side of'the heel and the axis'sof'said pivotal a heel in the work holder, saidsurfacebeadjustment being in a plane perpendicular to the tool and intersecting the breast surface of the heel.

3. In a grading machine for wood heels, a

saw, and a work holder pivotally mounted on an .axis perpendicular to the plane of the saw and arranged to swing a heel past the saw, the holder having a surface'arranged to contact with the attaching face of a heel in the work holder, saidsurface being pivotally adjustable about an axis parallel to the saw and extending from side to side of-the heel and the axis of said pivotal adjustment being in the plane in which the height ofthe heel is measured. s

- 4. In a grading machine for wood heels, a saw, and a work holder pivotally mounted on an axis perpendicular tothe plane of the saw and arranged to swinga heel past the saw, said work holder being also adjustable along said axis, the holder having asurface arranged to contact with the attaching face of a heelin the work holder, said surface being pivotally adjustable about an axis par allel to the saw and extending from side to side of the heel, the axis of said pivotal adjustment being substantially in the plane of the attaching surface of theheel and also in a plane which is perpendicular to the saw and intersects the breast of the heel.

5. In, a grading machine for wood heels,

a saw, and a work holder pivotally mounted on an axis perpendicular to the plane of the saw and arranged to swing a heel past the saw, the holder having a surface arranged to contact with the attaching face of a heel in the workholder, said surface being pivotally adjustable about an axispan allel to the saw and extending fromside to side of the heel, the axis of said pivotal adjustment being substatnially'in the plane of the attaching surface ofthe heel and also in a plane which is perpendicular-to the saw and intersects the breast of the heel at a predetermined distance below the edge-of the attaching face of the heel.

6.. In a grading machine for wood heels, a saw, a work holderpivotally mounted on an axis perpendicular to the plane of the i saw and arranged to swing a heel past the saw, the holder having a surface arranged to contact with the attaching face of a heel 'in'the work holder, said surface being pivotally adjustable about an axis parallel to the saw'and extending from side to side of the heel, the axis of said pivotal adjustment being in a plane perpendicular to the saw and intersecting the breast surface of the 7 heel, and a gage for contacting with the breast of the-heel.

7. In a grading machinefor wood heels, a saw, a work holder pivotally mounted on an axis perpendicular to the plane of the saw and arranged to swing a heel past the :j saw and being also adjustable along the said axis the holder having a surface arranged to contact with the attaching face of a heel in the work holder, said surface being pivotally adjustable about an axis parallel to the saw and extending from side to side of theheel, the axis of. said pivotal adjustment being in the plane in which the height ofthe heel is measured, and a gage for contacting with the breast of the heel, said gage being located in the said plane.

8. In a grading machine for wood heels,

a saw, a work holder pivotally mounted on an axis perpendicular to the plane of the saw and I arrangedto swing a heel past the saw, the'holderhaving a surface arranged to contact with the attaching face of a heel in the workholder, said surfaceibeing pivotally adjustable about an axis parallel to the holder having a surface arranged to contact with the attaching face of a heel in the work holder, said surface being pivotally adjustable about an axis parallel to thesaw and extending from side to side of the heel,

the axis of said pivotal adjustment being substantially in the plane of the attaching surface of the heel and also in a plane which is perpendicular to the saw and passes through-the breast of the heel,and a gage for contacting with the breast of the heel,

said gage being located in the last-mentioned planeandat a predetermineddistance from the'intersection of this plane with the sur face which contacts with the attaching face of the heel. V

10. In a measuring apparatus for heels, a member having a surface for contacting with the tread face of a heel in the apparatus, a member having a surface for'contacting with the attaching face'of theheel, said members being relatively adjustable angul-arly and toward and from each other to fit different heels, a member located between the said surfaces to determine the position of the heel between the surfaces, and meas- Luring scales for ascertaining the heights and pitchangles of heels ratus.

11. In a measuring apparatus for heels, a parthaving asurfacefor contacting with the tread face of a heel in the apparatus, apart fitted into the appa havinga surface for contacting with the at- I the saw and extending from side to side of g taching face of the heel, saidparts being relatively an ularl'y adjustable and relatively movable toward and from each other to acconunodate heels of different heights and pitch angles, a member located between'the said surfaces to determine the positionof the heel between thesurfaces' and thereby to determine the distance of the surfaces from each other when in contact with a particular heel, and indicating apparatus for showing the height and pitch angle of the heel.

12. Ina measuring apparatus for heels, a

niemher having a surface for contacting with- V the tread face of a heel' in the apparatus,"a

member having a surface for contacting with the attaching face of the'heel, said members being relatively angularly adjustable about an axis and relatively movable toward and from each other to accommodate heels of different heights and pitch angles, means for indicating the angle between the said sur-.

faces, and means for indicating their distance measured through the axis of the said angular adjustment.

13.111- a' measuring apparatus for heels, a member havingrasurface for contacting with the tread faceofa heel 1n the apparatus,

a member "having a surface for contacting ..-with the attaching face of the heel, said surfaces being relatively angularly adjustable about a pivotal axis and relatively movable toward and from each other to accommodate heels of different heights and pitch angles, means for indicating the angle between the said surfaces, means for indicating their distance measured through the pivotal axis of the said angular adjustment, and perpendicu-- lar to the tread face engaging surface, and a H gage for contacting with the breast of a heel in the apparatus. 7 I

14. In a measuring apparatus for heels, a

surface for contacting with the tread face of a heel in the apparatus, a member having a 7 surface for contacting with the attaching face of the heel, said surfaces being relatively angularly adjustable about a pivotal axis lying in one of the surfaces and relatively movable toward and from each other to accommodate heels of different heights and pitch angles, means for indicating the angle between the said surfaces, means for indicating their distance measured through the pivotal axis of the said angular adjustment, and a gage for contacting with the breast of a heel in the apparatus, said gage being located in a plane which passes through the said pivotal axis and is perpendicular to the tread face of a heel in the apparatus.

15. In an apparatus for measuring heels, a surface arranged to contact with the tread surface of a heel in the apparatus, a graduated bar at right angles to the said surface, a frame having anindex arranged to slide along the bar, with the index reading along the graduation thereof, a plate pivoted'in said frame on an axis parallel to the said surface and arranged to contact with the attaching face of the heel, and a-graduated scale ar ranged to show the angular position of said plate, when in contact with the heel.

16. In an apparatus for'measuring heels, a surface arranged to contact with the, tread surface of a heel in the device, a graduated bar at right angles to the said surface, a framehaving an index arranged to slide along the bar, with the index reading along the graduation thereof, and a plate pivoted in said frame on an axis parallel to'the said surface and arranged to contact with the attaching 'face'of the heel,- the said axis lying substantially in that face ofthe plate which contacts with the attaching face of the heel.

17. In an apparatus for measuring heels, a surface arranged to contact with the tread surface of a heel in the device,a graduated bar arranged transversely to the saidsurface, a frame having an index arranged to'slide along the bar, with the index reading along the graduation thereof, a plate pivoted in said frame on an axis parallel to the said surface and arranged to contact with the attaching face of the'heel, the said axis lying substantially inthat faceof the plate which contacts with the attaching face of the heel,

and: a gage arranged to contact with the breast of the heel.

18. In an apparatus for measuring heels,'a surface arranged to contactwith thetread surface of a heel in the device, a graduated bar at right angles to the said surface, a frame having an-index arranged to slide along the bar, with the index reading alongthe graduation thereof, a plate pivoted in said frame on an axis parallel to the said'surface and arranged to contactwith the attachingfaceof the heel, the said axis lying substantially in that face of the plate which con-' 7 fromeach other to accommodate heels of dif-, ferent heights and pitchangles, a gage for positively locating the heel in the apparatus,

perpendicular to the first and graduations on the attachingface engaging surface whereby the positions of the rear and front ends of the attaching face rel atively to the gage can be ascertained. I

20. In a measuring apparatus for heels, a surface for contacting with the tread face of a heel'in the apparatus, a surface for contacting with the attaching face of the heel, said surfaces being relatively angularly adjustable about a pivotal axis and relatively movable toward and from each other to accommodate heels of. different heights and pitch angles, and graduations on the attaching face engaging surface having their zero at the said 1 pivotal axis whereby the positions of the rear and front ends ofthe attaching face can be ascertained relatively to the said pivotal axis.-

21. In a measuring apparatus for heels, a surface for contacting with thetread face of .a heel in the apparatus, a surfacefor conta'c ting with the attaching face of the heel, said surfaces being relatively angularly adjustable about a pivotal axis and relatively movable toward and fromeach otherto accommodate heels of difiei'ent heights and pitch angles, and a scale adjacent to the firstnamed surface whereby the positions of the rear and front ends of the tread face of the heel can be ascertained relatively to the said pivotal axis. r

22. In a measuring apparatus for heels, a surface for contacting with. the tread face of a heel in the apparatus, a surface for contacting with the attaching faced the heel, said surfaces being relative'ly angularly adjustable about a pivotal axis and relative,-

, ly. movable toward and from each -other to accommodate heels of different heights; and

pitch angles, and a scale adj acent to the firstnamed surface whereby the positions of the rear and front ends of the tread face of the heel can be ascertained relativelyto the said '1 pivotal axis, said scale having a zero in a plane which is perpendicular to the said first named surface and which passes through the said pivotal axis. a a 1 v 28. An apparatus for holding heels comi prising. a member having a surface for contacting with the attaching face of a heel, said member being angularly adjustable about an axis lying substantially in the said surface, a second member having a fixed position and i having a surface for contacting with the tread face of the heel, said first-named member being adjustable toward and from said member in the fixed position to accommodate heels of varying heights, and a gage for the Y i breast of the heel, located inthe plane passing through-the said axis and perpendicular to the surface in the fixed position. I

24. In a grading machine for wood heels a saw for forming the tread face of a heel in r the machine, a member movable relatively to the saw in a direction parallel to the plane of the saw and having a surface for contacting with the attaching face of the heel, the saw and the member being relatively angularly adjustable and relatively movable toward and adjustment, and a gage for contacting with the breast of a heel in-the apparatus, said gage being located in a plane which passes through the said pivotal axis and is perpendicular to the plane of the saw.

prising a member, a heel holding and gaging device adjustable along said member, an indicating device comprising a graduated scale and pointer one of which is carried by the said member and the other of which is carried by the holding, and gaging device, for indicating the extent of the said adjustment, and arranged to indicate the distance of a certain point on the holding and gaging device from a plane having a fixed location relatively to that member of the indicating device that is carried by the first said member, the holding 25. An apparatus for holding heels com- '1 and gaging device having an element pivotally mounted thereon at the said point on an axis p'erpendicularto the first said member,

from each other to impartdifferent heights and pitch angles to different heels, means for indicating the angle between the saw and the surface, means for indicating their distance measured through the pivotalaxisof the said 

